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The following are events that took place on 7th July 2009 and covers Pondicherry-Chidambaram-Vaitheeswaran route. Read about the previous day here.
Photo of the day:
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Woke up a bit early since we wanted to walk around the town. We took a walk along the beach and saw quite a number of people walk/exercising along the beach side at around 7.45am or so. The waves were not high but can still feel the strong current. Saw Gandhi’s statue and War Memorial along the less than 1 km beach. We also saw some important buildings facing the sea – Ambedkar Hall, Church, government offices etc. Some of them are of French architecture.
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We walked past Sri Aurobindo ashramam again to take some pics because was rushing yesterday. Took breakfast at Adyar Anantha Bhavan restaurant (same place we had tea yesterday).
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Next, we went searching for the Auroville Information Center and managed to find it after using the map. The center houses a handicraft shop and also workplace. Collected some info on visiting Auroville city. We left for Auroville which is about 13km away. Reached Auroville at 10.20am (about 30 minutes due to traffic and road conditions).
A bit on Auroville. It was established in 1968 as a city of peace. There are residents of various nationalities living there, each contributing to the maintenance and well-being of the city. There’s strict rules on use of polluting vehicles and also other worldly vices. The highlight of the city is the Matri Mandir, a huge globe covered with small gold discs. There’s also a very old banyan tree and a white urn which contains soil (earth) from many countries which was placed during the launching of the city in 1968.
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From the visitor center, we walked about 1km or so to the viewing point. Yeah, to visit the interior of Matri Mandir, have to make prior reservations (at least a day earlier). You will be allowed to enter and meditate in the Mandir. For longer stays, have to contact and make reservations.
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We took some photos of the Matri Mandir from the viewing point, and talked to the security guard manning the viewing point (a mound of earth actually). We walked back to the visitor center (which is near to the restaurant, souvenir shops, and office management). Along the way, stopped at the to take photo of Sri Aurobindo’s statue. Proceeded to the souvenir shop – La Boutique d’ Auroville. Then did some shopping. Left Auroville at 12pm (hmm..more time shopping than viewing the Mandir!!!).
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Took lunch at Kaarthik Restaurant in Pondicherry and then checked out from hotel. Left for Chidambaram at 2.20pm.
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Chidambaram is famous for the Akasha stalam (yet another of the Pancha Bootha stalam) Tillai Nadaraja Temple. Here, Lord Shiva is represented as the space element. He is known as Lord Nadaraja since he performed the cosmic dance at the citsabha here (There’s 5 dance halls for Lord Shiva, Chidambaram is the golden hall). We hired a guide to show us around the temple (and its a huge temple compound!). There’s many, many statues and carvings dating back to 2nd century or older. As with other great temples in India, the building and expansion of the temple was done gradually over hundreds of years. The actual age of the inner temple is subject to debate, I guess.
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Anyway, we arrived at 4pm, walked around, took photos and then entered the inner compound around 5.30pm. We were forewarned that the priests in this temple (this temple is privately run by the priests) will ask for lots of money for various reasons). I was looking forward to see the Chidambaram Ragasiyam (refer here , here, and here), and waited patiently for the 6pm pooja. Managed to see the black curtain, but no sight of the golden vilvam leaves. As “warned” earlier, towards the right side of the moolastanam there will one or two priests handing out vibuthi. If they sense you are not local, they will ask where you are from and proceed to promote some prayer or another). The guy in front of me was from out of town and they asked Rs300 for some special prayer. I decided to skip the vibuthi part. Also, the priest (or staff) seem not to be showing respect to the visitors or devotees, simply saying “poh, poh”, or pushing people away. When we went to climb up (at the side entrance), the guy there said only certain people can go, and that its closed already. To make the long story short, I was really angry with the situation at this temple. Maybe not meant to be my turn yet to visit Lord Nadaraja.
I made my way out, blood boiling. Came all the way from Malaysia and some jokers make the life miserable. I really cursed those fellas!
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Left Chidambaram at 6.50pm for next stop – the popular Vaitheswaran temple in Vaitheswaran. Reached the temple around 8pm. Went for a quick tour and prayer in the temple. I can imagine Sarath Kumar making an entry in this temple as per the movie “Vaitheeswaran”. Why this temple is famous? Well, for two things: the “olai chuvadi” (leaves that contain details about an individual, writtten thousands of years ago), and the medicinal healing properties of the temple prasatham. Its also one of the nine temples that represent the Navagraha (this one represents Mars).
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There’s a few shops outside the temple that are “agents” (I think) for the olai chuvadi business. We went to one of the stall. From what I know, not everyone’s record is available (well, with 6 billion over people, it will take a lot of storage!), so depends on your luck. There are very few places that store these leaves, so you may have try in the other venues as well. After searching twice, the guy managed to find the leaves that contain, ahem, my records. Basically, the use your thumb print to identify the suitable set of leaves, and by process of questions, eliminate the leaves in the set to find your records. They also provide a cassette recording of the session so that you can go back and listen to it. There’s also a standard pooja (for a fee of course) which will be done by their guru for your well-being, and the prasatham posted to your home (Got mine two days after returning home). For me, being the skeptical person, I have my doubts on the validity of the “agents” and the readings. The olai may exist, but surely only for small number of people. I can’t imagine someone writing down the records for millions of peoples who will be living centuries later. Oh ya, my “readings” were all normal, nothing out of the ordinary. Cost for full package (meaning it covers all topics – health, career, family, marriage, wealth, blah blah blah) is about Rs3000.
Tired from the travels, we hit the sack around 10pm. Stayed at Balaji Lodge for the night.
Continue reading Day 5 here.
Very nice pics. I like the ones of Chidambaram. Never visited that place before. Its a very ancient site. The Dikshitars who are in charge of this temple have been around since time immemorial. Only married men are allowed to serve in this temple. Thats the condition. For a long time they have lost all patronage from the aristocrats. Now they have to depend on the offerings from the pilgrims. No salary is paid in this temple to the priests. Many have resorted to non-traditional professions to earn their keep. Daughters have started to work in order to supplement the family income. With the dowry stigma looming over their heads who can blame the priests for “extorting” money from visitors. Its ok to pay them rather than our tax man who channel the money for the upkeep of our political big spenders.
yeah, Chidambaram should be a must-visit site for all hindus. i think the problems with temple in south india goes deep. there’s politics and economic influence as well. i would prefer to see a proper management of the temples, either state or via trust. i don’t mind donating or giving money to the temples, but the scenario in majority of temples in the south is like i feel being conned. i just want to go and pray, but those fella will offer to do all kinds of pooja, but all kinds of prasadham etc, and if just put 2rs in the tray, wah..stare at us oh… they need to understand not all tourists are rich people. i think every temple, we spend 100-200 rupees at least – undial, money on the tray, buy deity pictures, buying flowers etc. at some places, can go higher due to guide etc.
its not only the money, but the manner. how nice if everything is well documented so that the visitors are clear. the temple should display the fees, rules etc.