For generations, the Chetti community was tucked away in its own little world of ancient traditions in a tiny village in Gajah Berang, Malacca. But gradually, it started opening its doors to the world and charmed visitors. RINA DE SILVA traces its history and looks at its hopes for the future.

A Chetti family in their traditional attire in the early days.

NOTHING would make S.T. Rajah Jan Tamby Pillay, 54, move out of his Chetti village in Gajah Berang, Malacca ? not even the frequent flash floods.

"I cannot leave. This is my kampung and of the generations before me," he said.

Many of his neighbours are also against moving away from the village for any reason.

But many more have left, for the sake of space, privacy, better educational opportunities and career prospects. Some have also left the country.
Those who remain hold on tight to their community to keep the culture alive and practise ancient customs and traditions taught by their forefathers.

The Chetti community still practises its tradition of praying to ancestors.

Like previous generations, women who live in the village try to stay indoors at all times. A female teenager drinks raw egg and sesame oil when she comes of age.

A male child would have his ears pierced by the age of 2. Herbal plants are used to cure skin diseases.

The community is known as Indian Peranakan, the product of marriages between early Indian traders and locals over 500 years ago.

They are staunch Hindus who observe their community’s traditions strictly.

Today, one can still see elderly women wearing sarong and loose kebaya tops.

The community continues to converse in Malay. Many cannot speak any Indian language. Those who do, learnt it on their own.

Despite their strict adherence to ritual and tradition, the community in Gajah Berang is shrinking. Only 60 families are left, half of what it used to be 50 years ago.

In the early days, many of them married their cousins just to maintain strong community bonds. Today, half of the Chetti community in Gajah Berang are related to one another.

Those who did leave, love their culture but wanted space and a new environment to seek better opportunities for their families.

G. Meenachi Govindasamy Naiker Rajah, 75, is one of them.

She lived in the community for over 50 years before moving out with her late husband Sathasivam Pillay and children more than 20 years ago.

She felt the community was not the ideal environment for her children who desired a better life.

As the community was poor, many did not pursue their education after Form Five. Some stopped after Form Three.

In the early days, many of the men were despatch riders, clerks and postmen.. Women traditionally were housewives.

Mohan Pillay and his wife S. Vijaya Lakshimi also moved out of the village after they got married in 1976 ? partly for work reasons and partly to make way for Mohan’s brother to raise a family.

Their present house is 10km away from the village.

"We also wanted our own space and privacy to raise our family," said Mohan..

But the couple are fond of the village and help the community whenever they can.

Mohan is the MIC leader for the Chetti village. He fights for the rights of the community, which traditionally accepted what was given to them without much fuss.

Whether they live in the community or not, most Chetti families hang mango leaves at the entrance of their homes as a symbol of their identity.

Not all the traditions are followed strictly.

It has been decades since a Chetti woman gave birth at home or a young girl stayed at home for 44 days after reaching puberty.

However, many Chetti women follow the ancient tradition of not bathing for 16 days after giving birth. After that, she is only allowed to bathe twice a month.

It is an extraordinary bath. The woman wraps herself in a sarong, pours hot water over the head while sitting on a stool with the body smeared in a blended mix of lemongrass, red onions and betel leaves with coriander powder.

She has this bath in the afternoon and it is over in 10 minutes.

As the country developed during the post-Merdeka days, more Chetti women started to hold jobs.

With that, their dressing also changed but they remained modest. Today’s working women, like kindergarten teacher K. Vimala Devi, prefer wearing salwar kameez.

"I cannot imagine running around after the children in a sarong and kebaya."

Saris are also worn during weddings and temple ceremonies.

The community used to be reserved about sharing their customs and traditions with the outside world but they have been more open in the past 20 years.

A museum was set up in Gajah Berang next to the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple to allow locals and tourists to get a glimpse of the Chetti way of life.

It is built like a traditional Chetti house complete with a living room, bride’s room and a prayer room.

The kitchen and eating quarters are separated from the house.

Being open to the outside world has also made them curious about other races and religions. They have learnt to respect other communities.

On the morning of Wesak Day, the Chetti community would bow in front of the Seck Kia Eenh Vihara Buddhist temple a few buildings away from the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple.

It is also not uncommon to see Chetti people prostrating in front of altars in Catholic homes or statues of saints or even attending Good Friday mass.

The community is worried that the traditions will not be observed by the younger generation in the future.

Chetti village head K. Arunasalam, 48, said Chetti culture was not followed by today’s young Chettis.

He and his wife, Vimala Devi, are teaching their children what their ancestors passed down.

"It is important to pass the knowledge to the next generation otherwise it will be lost," said Arunasalam.

Vimala Devi said she encourages her children to take part in temple activities and ceremonies.

"I love my culture but I worry whether it will still be around later. If one does not live among the Chettis, he or she may not be able to preserve the culture," she said.

Arunasalam said the community was trying to make room in the village for Chetti families who have moved out in the past.

"Many have expressed a desire to return but have no houses to live in any more," he said.

Rajah said youngsters should preserve the culture taught by their elders.

"This is the only such culture in the world. They should be proud of it.

"It is not difficult to preserve your culture if you are sincere. It is more important than one’s own happiness," he said.